Iguazu Falls

Iguazu Falls
Aerial view of Iguazu Falls from the Brazilian side.

Friday 22 May 2015

Oscar Arnulfo Romero Remembered /Recordando el Arzobispo Oscar Arnulfo Romero

Tomorrow, May 23,  Archbishop Oscar Arnulfo Romero will be beatified. The ceremony will take place in San Salvador and I regret that I cannot be there. I met and got to know Monseñor Romero during five months of research in El Salvador, 1979-80. Indeed, I left the country to return home and write a book just four days before his assassination.

Below is an op-ed I wrote and submitted to three newspapers; one declined because they already had a Romero piece, the other two didn't bother to respond.  So, here is my tribute to Romero (En español a continuación):
Archbishop Oscar Romero during his homily on 9 March 1980. He is speaking into a telephone connected to a 50,000 watt radio station in Costa Rica, which is broadcasting the Mass live. The previous week, right-wing thugs had blown up the transmitter of YSAX, the archdiocesan radio station in San Salvador.



May 23 is a glorious day for Salvadorans, one that most of the population has awaited for decades. Oscar Arnulfo Romero, the archbishop of San Salvador from February 1977 until his assassination by a right-wing death squad while saying Mass on March 24, 1980, will be beatified. 

Romero’s murder was the first time a Catholic priest had been killed in a church since Thomas Becket in 1170.  Both were archbishops who paid with their lives for standing up to their governments.  In Becket’s case, he ran afoul of King Henry II for refusing to put the Crown ahead of the Church and the king ordered his death.  

I had the privilege and honour of meeting, interviewing, and getting to know “Monseñor”—as he was affectionately called.  He was one of the moral giants of the late 20th century—up there with Martin Luther King, Jr., Nelson Mandela, Desmond Tutu, and other Latin American Catholic bishops who spoke truth to power during the dark years of military dictatorships.  I have never known anyone as humble, as clear in his faith, as courageous and unflinching. 
Monseñor Romero and me during an interview, December 1979.
Romero was plucked from the obscurity of a small diocese in eastern El Salvador where his focus was entirely on pastoral work and avoiding anything that smacked of politics. He was chosen precisely for this reason; Auxiliary Bishop Arturo Rivera Damas, the popular choice, was bluntly told in Rome why he wasn’t selected: “We don’t want anyone who will oppose the government.”   

The murder of a rural parish priest, Rutilio Grande, just three weeks after Romero’s installation, was transformative.  In an interview three months before his own death, Monseñor recalled the moment: 

Father Grande’s death and the subsequent deaths of other priests impelled me to take an energetic attitude before the government. Because of Grande’s death I said that I would not attend any official acts until this situation (who had killed Grande) was clarified…. I support all of the priests in the communities. We have managed to combine well the pastoral mission of the Church, preference for the poor, to be clearly on the side of the repressed, and from there to clamor for the liberation of the people.

Thus, Romero ran afoul of the government and economic elite—known as the “oligarchy”--for his relentless defence of human rights and denunciations of the increasing numbers of dead and disappeared  that unfolded in El Salvador in the late 1970s and early 80s.  While the Salvadoran government didn’t order Romero’s death, it created a climate in which right-wing death squads operated with impunity—often out of military barracks.
Sunday Mass was a must-do during my first months in the country. The Mass was traditional but Romero’s homily, often 90 minutes long, was not. Broadcast on the archdiocesan radio station, he became “the voice of those who have no voice.” 

Beginning with a theological exposition on the day’s scriptural readings, Romero related them to the reality of life in El Salvador. After church announcements, a recitation of the previous week’s events followed, which included a reading of every documented case of persons who had been killed, assaulted, or tortured—no matter by whom.  The homily was, in short, an oral newspaper. 

Romero once said, “If they kill me, I will be resurrected in the Salvadoran people.”  With his death the church was effectively silenced. Rome kept his successor, Arturo Rivera Damas, on a short leash by naming him “apostolic administrator” and waiting three years to make him archbishop.  

On February 1, 1992, the day peace formally came to El Salvador after eleven years of civil war (a cease fire had been in effect for several weeks), the former guerrillas, soon to be a legal political party, held a celebration in the plaza in front of the cathedral. As I entered the plaza and looked up, an enormous banner, billowing from the roof, stopped me. It held Romero’s visage and the words, “Monseñor, You are resurrected in your people.”


On May 23 that sentiment will flow through the streets of San Salvador and across the country. The Legislative Assembly, at the request of President Salvador Sánchez Cerén, a former guerrilla commander, this week approved a bill that gives workers in San Salvador and surrounding municipalities May 22nd off with pay, and all workers throughout the country the same benefit on the 23rd.  

The oligarchy, many of whom funded the death squads 35 years ago—even as they never missed Mass and sent their children to Catholic schools--will stay hidden behind their high walls and gated communities.  No matter. May 23 belongs to Oscar Arnulfo Romero and the millions of Salvadorans to whom he gave hope and a vision of a better country.  
__________________________________________________

Mañana, 23 de mayo, Arzobispo Oscar Arnulfo Romero serán beatificado. La ceremonia llevará a cabo en San Salvador y lamento que no puedo asistir. Conocí y llegué a conocer Monseñor Romero durante cinco meses de investigación en El Salvador, 1979-80. De hecho, me fui del país para regresar a casa y escribir un libro tan solo cuatro días antes de su asesinato.  Abajo es un artículo de opinión escrito y presentado a tres periódicos; uno disminuido porque ya tenían un artículo sobre Romero, los otros dos no molestan a responder. Así que, aquí está mi homenaje a Romero


El 23 de mayo es un día glorioso para los salvadoreños, uno que la mayoría de la población ha esperado durante décadas. Oscar Arnulfo Romero, Arzobispo de San Salvador desde febrero de 1977 hasta su asesinato a manos de un escuadrón de la muerte derechistas mientras decía la misa el 24 de marzo de 1980, será beatificado.

El asesinato de Romero fue la primera vez que un sacerdote católico había sido asesinado en una iglesia desde Thomas Becket en 1170. Ambos fueron arzobispos que pagaron con sus vidas, resulta de oponer las políticas de sus gobiernos. En caso de Becket, se enfrentó con el rey Henry II por negarse a poner la corona por delante de la iglesia y el rey ordenó su muerte.

Tuve el privilegio y el honor de reuniones, entrevistas y conocer "Monseñor" — como lo llamaban cariñosamente. Fue uno de los gigantes morales de finales del siglo XX — junto a Martin Luther King, Jr., Nelson Mandela, Desmond Tutu y otros obispos católicos de América Latina que habló la verdad al poder durante los oscuros años de las dictaduras militares. Nunca he conocido a alguien tan humilde, como claro en su fe, como valiente y resuelta.

Romero fue sacado de la oscuridad de una pequeña diócesis en el oriente de El Salvador donde su enfoque fue enteramente en trabajo pastoral y evitar cualquier cosa que golpeó de la política. Fue elegido precisamente por esa razón; el Obispo Auxiliar Arturo Rivera Damas, la opción popular, le dijo sin rodeos en Roma porque él no fue elegido: "No queremos a nadie que se opondrá al gobierno".

El asesinato de un sacerdote de una parroquia rural, Rutilio Grande, apenas tres semanas después de la instalación de Romero era transformativo. En una entrevista tres meses antes de su muerte, Monseñor recordó el momento:

"La muerte del padre Grande y las muertes posteriores de otros sacerdotes me empujó a tomar una actitud enérgica ante el gobierno. Debido a la muerte del Grande le dije que no asistiera ningún acto oficial hasta que se aclaró la situación (que había matado a Grande)... Apoyo a todos los sacerdotes en las comunidades. Hemos conseguido combinar bien la misión pastoral de la iglesia, preferencia por los pobres, a ser claramente del lado de los reprimidos y desde allí al clamor por la liberación del pueblo".

Por lo tanto, Romero se enfrentaron con el gobierno y la élite económica — conocida como la "oligarquía"--por su implacable defensa de los derechos humanos y denuncias de los crecientes números de muertos y desaparecidos que se desarrollaron en El Salvador al finales de los 70 y principios de los 80. Mientras que el gobierno salvadoreño no ordenó la muerte de Romero, creó un clima en que los escuadrones de la muerte derechistas operado con impunidad — a menudo fuera de los cuarteles militares.

La Misa los domingos era un deber-hacer durante mis primeros meses en el país. La Misa era tradicional pero la homilía de Romero, a menudo de 90 minutos de duración, no. Transmitido por la emisora de radio de la Arquidiócesis, YSAX, se convirtió en "la voz de quienes no tienen voz".

A partir de una exposición teológica en lecturas de las escrituras del día, Romero los relacionaron con la realidad de la vida cotidiana en El Salvador. Después de anuncios de la iglesia, siguió una recitación de los acontecimientos de la semana anterior, que incluyó una lectura de todos los casos documentados de personas que habían sido asesinados, agredidos o torturados — no importa por quién, derecha o izquiersa. La homilía fue, en definitiva, un periódico oral.

En un momento, Romero dijo que, "Si me matan, seré resucitado en el pueblo salvadoreño." Con su muerte la iglesia se silenció. Roma mantuvo su sucesor, Arturo Rivera Damas, con una correa corta por nombrarlo "administrador apostólico" y esperó tres años para hacerle arzobispo.

El 01 de febrero de 1992, el día de que la paz formalmente llegó a El Salvador después de once años de guerra civil (un alto de fuego había sido en efecto durante varias semanas), los ahora exguerrilleros, el FMLN, pronto a ser un partido político legal, llevó a cabo una celebración en la plaza frente a la catedral.

Cuando entró en la plaza y levanté la vista, una enorme bandera, ondulando desde el techo, me detuvo. Sostuvo el rostro de Romero y las palabras: "Monseñor, resucitaste en tu pueblo."

El 23 de mayo ese sentimiento fluirá a través de las calles de San Salvador y en todo el país. La Asamblea Legislativa, a propuesta del Presidente Salvador Sánchez Cerén, un ex comandante guerrillero, esta semana aprobó una ley para dar asueto pagado el día viernes 22 de mayo a nivel metropolitano de San Salvador y el mismo beneficio el 23 a todo el país.

La oligarquía, muchos de los cuales financiaron los escuadrones de la muerte hace 35 años — aun cuando nunca perdió la Misa y envió a sus hijos a escuelas católicas--permanecerá oculto detrás de sus altos muros y comunidades con portones. No importa. El 23 de mayo pertenece a Oscar Arnulfo Romero y los millones de salvadoreños a quienes les dio esperanza y una visión de un país mejor.


Thursday 21 May 2015

From Manzanillo to Colima



Sunrise over Manzanillo

Located a 4-hour drive south of Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo is the swordfishing capital of the world and has become one of Mexico’s most important commercial ports and THE port for Mexico City.  I was stunned by the extent of port development in the last decade. We would learn that it is giving Long Beach, California increasing competition because there are rail lines into the port and ships can unload their containers here, which are placed on flatbeds and head for points north, from Texas to Canada.  It is less expensive to unload and ship from here than from Long Beach and this is feeding its growth. There is also an iron mine to the north and the ore is shipped from here.
Port of Manzanillo

Colima state is heavily agricultural with mangoes, coconuts, lemons, and agave (tequila) among the principal crops.

After docking we headed for the hills of Colima (the state and city) and two archaeological sites, one more stunning than the other.  Our wonderful driver, Felipe Esqueda,  spoke English, having spent 25 years in California, but is from Colima and seems to know everyone and all the usually-ignored byways.  First stop was a canal in Manzanillo where the trees are laden with iguanas—and one Great White Heron.   
The iguanas of Manzanillo
Agave
Mangoes
On the road, he told us that mangoes are an important crop for domestic consumption and export, then turned off to a farm, Mangoes Nuñez, where we had great photo ops of the not-yet-ripe mangoes, the biggest nopal cactus we have ever seen, a large green fruit called “yaca” and “mano de Budda”, another fruit that is chopped, then blended with water and sugar for a high-in-vitamin-C drink.  

Yaca

Mano de Budda

Shrine to the Virgin of Guadalupe
Shrine to "Santa Muerte"
At another stop overlooking the Cuyutlan Lagoon (40 km. long), we encountered 3 shrines, one to the Virgin of Guadalupe (Mexico's patron saint), the other two to “Santa Muerte”—Saint Death. Felipe explained that they are erected by people involved in the drug trade, whether at a low or high level, because they expect their line of work will lead to their death at some point. This is of the same genre as the “black mass”, in which the cross is upside down and there is sometimes a sex act in the ceremony—in other words, satanic.  Still, Felipe said that Colima has little involvement in the drug trade and there has been little violence associated with it.


In Colima, which is an hour’s drive from the coast, our first stop was La Campana archaeological site. I didn’t recognize it because continuing excavations over the last decade (we were first here in 2005) have enlarged the site at least four-fold.  La Campana is the centre of the Colima, or “West” Culture”, an indigenous civilization that dominated this part of Mexico before the Aztecs.   


Using available material—as always—the pyramids, platforms, and residential areas are all built of river rock (3 rivers run through the area) and mortar.  There is a subterranean, L-shaped tomb holding items that were buried with the bodies: ceramic bowls and dogs that look like fat Chihuahuas and were central to their belief system. 

The ball court at La Campana
The (larger) ball court at El Chanal


After La Campana we headed to a lesser known site, El Chanal, a ten minute drive away.  Not as large as La Campana—although much remains unexcavated—less is known about the people who built El Chanal.  Its layout differs significantly from La Campana, with a large round platform at the entrance and a relatively small pyramid just beyond it that is square and occupies the central part of the site.   


Part of El Chanal from the top of the central pyramid.

Interestingly, both sites have immediately adjacent residential areas, unlike Teotihuacán, for example, where the residential areas are completely outside the main ceremonial area.   Both have ball courts, a common feature of Meso-American sites, although the one at La Campana is about one-third smaller than El Chanal. 


On leaving El Chanal we headed downtown, stopped for a liquid lunch at Dairy Queen, and visited the Colima Museum of Archaeology and History, located on the picturesque central plaza. Dancing dogs, from a pre-Columbian sculpture that are the symbol of Colima, decorated the sidewalk near the Cathedral--a reminder of Chicago's cows, Toronto's moose, and Bath, England's pigs.



 







The museum's ground floor is all pre-Columbian, the 2nd floor more recent history. It is small but very well done, including laminated guides to the exhibits in English and other languages. 

A quick stop for photos around the central plaza, including the cathedral/ basilica, and we headed back to Manzanillo on the autopista, a super-highway that connects the coast with Guadalajara (4 hours) and points beyond.  

Back in Manzanillo we found a restaurant facing the port with free WiFi just to the right of the ayuntamiento--city hall. 
Manzanillo's City Hall

Leaving port we had a great view, including the mammoth metal swordfish that define's the city's late 20th century history, if not its future. 
Manzanillo Harbour