Vilcanota Valley, with the Vilcanota/Urubamba River, part of the Sacred Valley |
Cusco and the Sacred Valley of the Incas. It never gets old...even on the third visit. The highlights of Cusco and environs merit a separate post; this focuses on a two-day tour of the Sacred Valley, which runs north from Cusco to Urubamba.
Day 1:
Rain kept us from being as energetic as we would have liked. Read: climb 200 steps at Ollyantaytambo (Oy-YAN-tah-ee-TAHM-bow), one of two major Inca sites in the valley. It is built up the sides of two mountains, with the ceremonial centre on one side and granaries and a large man's face carved into the other.
Ollantaytambo--the 200 steps. |
Ollantaytambo: granaries and man's head |
Looking from the main plaza to the granaries |
The town, of the same name, is the best-preserved Inca municipality in an empire that stretched from northern Ecuador to central Chile.
Ollantaytambo-town with Inca walls and aqueduct. |
The other site, Pisaq, is closer to Cusco It too requires climbing, a fairly gentle but steady incline to the main area, then more, steeper climbing to some of the buildings and the Intihuatana.
Pisaq is notable for the wall and doorway over the Inca Trail, which affords one of many stunning views of the Sacred Valley far below.
Inca trail and entrance to Pisaq |
Simon, Quechua flutist. |
The town of Pisaq reminded me a bit of a hilly Antigua, with its well-preserved colonial buildings and houses.
Guide Javier Quispe Cruz with David Abrahams |
A large silver factory and jewelry store kept us looking for a half hour but I resisted the temptation to purchase a magnificent spondylus shell necklace. A couple blocks away we came on the oldest colonial oven in Pisaq, where we enjoyed
The oldest oven in Pisaq |
Spondylus shell necklace |
Our last stop was at the Sanctuario Cochahuasi, a wildlife rescue centre. After getting up close and personal with a 60-year old condor we stopped to watch Antonia, a Quechua weaver, on a backstrap loom that brought up other memories of Guatemala.
A condor and me |
Angela, weaver |
Day 2:
Better weather greeted us and by afternoon there was some blue sky and sun. Our destinations included Moray, an Inca agricultural experiment station, the Marasal salt ponds, created in Inca times and fed by one small creek of VERY salty water, and the weaving town of Chinchero, which brought back memories of Teotitlán del Valle, Oaxaca. Along the way we stopped at a mirador where we looked down to the Urubamba River Valley while to our right was a hillside covered with terraces of Inca granaries or storage buildings where dried potatoes and other food, as well clothing and wool were kept for times of famine. People in the Inca empire never went hungry.
Granaries in the Sacred Valley |
Moray is amazing site. First discovered in an archaeologist’s over flight of the region, a dozen-plus terraces were carved into a natural bowl. The difference between the top of the bowl and the bottom is 5 degrees, which created a series of microclimates on each terrace. Here the Incas improved the quality of several foods and spread this knowledge throughout the empire. Two smaller terraced bowls remain to be restored. The Peruvian National Institute for Agrarian Research (INIA) plans to renew Moray as an agricultural test station in the next few years.
Marasal Salt Ponds. The Incas suffered from
widespread goiter because of the lack of salt in their diet. On discovering a
small salty creek feeding into a steep valley, they began constructing ponds to
capture the water, evaporate it, then harvest the salt. Over 2,000 salt ponds
were created and are still in use.
Source of the salt ponds. |
Men harvesting one of the salt ponds. |
Families in the nearby town of Maras own 2-3
ponds, which cannot be sold but are passed down in the family. In the rainy
season (the North American winter months), we saw workers on only one salt
pond; in the dry season from April to October, the ponds are flooded three
times per month, allowed to dry, the harvested once a month. Each pond produces
50 kilos of salt per month.
Our next stop was Chinchero, located 50 minutes north of Cusco where the men farm and the women weave. The men help by going into the countryside and collecting the plants used to make the natural dyes that provide vibrant colours to both alpaca and sheep wool.
Dyeing alpaca |
Olga |
Our guide, Javier Quispe Cruz, led us to the Mink’a Chinchero co-op, a group of 15 women who weave, demonstrate their art to visitors, and sell their products. We were treated to a well prepared demonstration narrated by Olga Huaman, whose English and sense of humour were sharp.
After demonstrating how they wash the wool with a natural detergent made from a tree root, make the dyes, dye the wool and weave on a back-strap loom, Olga held up a bone used in weaving and asked us what animal it came from. Cow, sheep, alpaca, llama? No, she said with a broad smile. “It’s the bone from a tourist who didn’t buy anything!” We couldn’t stop laughing. It was, in fact, alpaca. Olga also demonstrated how they use the red colours from the cochineal insect (a small white insect that lives on Nopales cacti) for lipstick. After applying a dot to her cheek and some to her lips, she looked at David and said, “This is good for a thousand kisses.” More laughter. We left with an alpaca scarf for David and small purse in which my notebook fits and hangs around my neck.
M'inke coop weavers and their products. |
Back
in Cusco we invited Javier and our driver to lunch, saying only that we wanted
typical Peruvian food.
They took us to La Casona del Inca, which has two
locations, one near Sacsayhuaman just outside Cusco, where ceviche made with
mountain trout and accompanied by sweet potatoes and corn was memorable.