The Panama Canal—North to South

 This is our fifth traversal of the canal since 2005—well, David’s 6^th; he was here while in the Canadian Navy 60 years ago.  It is always a thrill and today was perfect—hot and sunny with a slight breeze.  Most impressive were the major advances in construction of the new locks since we were here a year ago, when we did a cross-country trip to Colon to see the new locks on the Atlantic side.

Sunrise at Colon, before entering Gatun Locks

The commentator who joined the ship before we entered Gatun Locks and is provided by the Panama Canal Authority left much to be desired, particularly in his avoidance of any remotely controversial subject.  Early in the day he mentioned that he had been asked why the flags are at half-staff. 

Approaching Gatun with a cruise ship on the left and a freighter on the right.

Today is January 9, Martyrs Day and a national holiday in Panama.  It commemorates the 21 Panamanians who died in confrontations with U.S. soldiers on this day in 1964.  The history, briefly, is that in January 1963 President John Kennedy issued a directive that both the U.S. and Panamanian flags should be flown at all non-military sites in the Canal Zone.  CZ authorities dragged their feet in implementing this order and, after Kennedy’s death, the CZ governor essentially ignored it. So, in January, about 200 students from Panama’s top high school marched into the CZ with a Panamanian flag and attempted to raise it at Balboa High School, the CZ school for U.S. residents.  Confrontation led to skirmish, which led to riots.  In the end 25 were killed, four of them US soldiers.  Most observers consider this event the beginning of the end of US control over the canal zone and canal.  Thirteen years later, Panama’s president, Omar Torrijos and President Jimmy Carter signed the historic Panama Canal Treaty.  At midnight on December 31, 1999, the canal zone and canal reverted to Panamanian control and sovereignty.

Our commentator’s answer to the question about flags at half-staff was, “It’s a memorial day.” That’s when I knew he is not Panamanian!

His second gaffe was to assert that the “official name” of Culebra Cut—the continental divide—is “Galliard Cut.”  Now, Gaillard was one of the most important figures in the construction of the canal and has a deserved place in history.  Panamanians, however, call it “Culebra Cut” and that’s its contemporary name.

Our passage was without incident although later than originally expected.  We had originally planned to enter Gatun before sunrise but the captain announced the night before that we would not enter until 7 a.m. Result is that we will not anchor until about 12 hours later, which means that we won’t be doing any sightseeing today. 

Culebra Cut in 2009 and 2016.  It has been widened to accommodate the larger ships that will use the new locks.

The photos above will give you an idea of how much progress has been made in the last six years.  We last sailed through the canal exactly two years ago today and it is impressive how far they have come in completing the new locks and related construction.  The locks, which will be able to handle bigger-than-Panamax ships are now scheduled to open in April.  (Panamax ships are built to the maximum length and width possible to fit in the current locks.)

In Pedro Miguel lock.