ART AND WATER IN LIMA

Two days in Lima were no-stress, for a change.  Day 1 our reliable taxi driver, Segundo, met us at the port and took us to see Máximo Laura, the great Peruvian tapestry maker. We met on a cruise a couple years ago when he and his wife came on in Panama to talk about tapestry making in general and his work in particular. Last year I published an article about Máximo in Private Air magazine and wanted to deliver a copy of the issue.  

I had written that approaching his in the San Martin de Porres district just NE of the airport, was passing from the tan dust of the Peruvian desert to an explosion of colour.  We discovered that the approach to his house and workshop is not direct because all the surrounding streets have been dug up--to a depth of about 1/3 m.  After 15 minutes of looking for a way in, Segundo called Máximo who provided directions and said he would cycle out to lead us in. Good as his word, there he was waiting at the designated corner. 

It was a great visit with another tour of his workshops and stops at each of the looms.  Máxmo now has his first female apprentice, a young woman who began a few months ago and is still learning the ropes. Indeed, she will be learning for the next 2-3 years before she begins working on major tapestries. 

The next stop was shopping for a few needed accessories--a 2nd camera battery, a flashlight, both of which died since leaving home. Then we headed to a large park with several enormous fountains that put on a show at 7, 8, and 9 p.m. every night.  We lined up with a few thousand (no exaggeration) Peruvians and when we got to the ticket window, about 15 minutes later, I asked for two tickets.  The young woman asked if we were over 65. When i said "yes" she smiled and said entrance was free  I had seen the sign indicating that young children and seniors did not pay but assumed it was for Peruvians only--as we have found in other countries. 

The show began promptly at 7 but after the big, round fountain danced for 15 minutes, we expected--as advertised--that the long narrow fountain would begin its show. Alas, it was not to be.  The waters shot up for 10-15 seconds, crashed down, then everything went black.  A large POP told us that a fuse had blown.  We waited another 20 minutes to see if it was fixed but, alas, it was not to be.  We later learned from other passengers that it was fixed in time for the 8:00 show but by then we were on our way back to the ship and dinner. 

Day 2 was a late beginning because we had only one commitment: lunch with the Canadian ambassador to Peru, Gwyn Kutz, whom we have known since she served in El Salvador over a decade ago. The party also included a couple who are old friends from Calgary, Gwyn's hometown.  Las Brujas del Cacique is a terrific restaurant where we've dined before and their lunch buffet is a wonderful spread of traditional Peruvian dishes--from ceviche to tamales. 

Before lunch we visited the Barranco district, which Segundo described--aptly--as "a little bohemian."  It is charming, much lower key than modern, frenetic Miraflores, home many restaurants, peñas, and shops. 

Plaza Mayor, Barranco

 

The Electricity Museum is small, detailed, and free admission.  This electric tram is across the street.

We were struck by the fact that greater prominence has been given to Nicola Tesla than to Thomas Edison in this mural.about the origins of electricity.

We also visited MATE, the Mario Testino photography museum.  Testino is most famous for his iconic pictures of Princess Diana, taken just a month before her death. An entire room is devoted to her, along with the dress she wore for some of the pictures and that she giften him afterward.  This picture, however, is a room in the museum where artists can come and do their thing--as this young woman is doing.