Iguazú and Iguaçu -- Two sides of the Falls

Thirty years on, the opening scene of "The Mission" is seared in my memory: a man strapped to a wooden cross floating down increasingly tortured rapids and then inevitably, to my horror, plunging over the biggest waterfalls I had ever seen. These were Iguazu-or Iguaçu in Portuguese—Falls, about which, Eleanor Roosevelt reportedly said, "This makes Niagara Falls look like a drop in a thimble."

This region of northeastern Argentina, southeastern Brazil, and southwestern Paraguay was the centre of perhaps the most intriguing and for over 100 years most successful missionary effort in the Latin American history of the Roman Catholic Church. Jesuits arrived in the early 17th century and began developing missions--called reducciones--to which they attracted (critics say forced) the forest-dwelling indigenous Guaraní, taught them skills both practical and cultural, transcribed their language and created the first 100 percent literate society in the world.

Iguazu was the symbolic centre of this far-flung enterprise; the power of the river had shaped Guaraní legends and culture for millennia--and no wonder: the falls stretch for almost two kilometers, crashing down in two, sometime three levels. Today the falls are almost entirely in Argentina; only the southern edge of Garganta del Diablo, Devil's Throat, is in Brazil.  

Garganta del Diablo

A common view is that the Argentine side is better. A more accurate assessment is that the two sides are different. Both are dramatic and awe-inspiring. Argentina's Iguazu National Park provides trains from the central station, 300 meters from the entrance, to a second station where one can take a s second train to the 1 km. walkway that leads over tributaries and across small islands to a large platform that overlooks Garganta. 

Or, one can walk to one of two pedestrian circuits, one of which meanders through the rainforest, the other taking visitors on a recently expanded metal trail over streams and through forest that affords views of successive waterfalls, ending with the San Martín. This new trail, completed in 2015, is one way—passing by successive falls on the way to San Martín and returning over streams and through forest back to the main path. 

On both sides river boat rides in large zodiacs powered by two 250 hp. outboards that take the moderately adventurous near the falls and promise a complete drenching (large, waterproof bags are provided to store everything you don’t want to get wet). Ponchos and raincoats do not help. There’s too much water and spray coming from all directions. On both sides the end of the trip requires a hike up the hill, although on the Argentine side the climb is longer: 350 steps.

The Argentine side brings you close to many of the falls from the top down. The last stop at San Martín has an overlook near the edge of the falls but does not provide a view into the abyss. After hiking to Garganta and viewing the other falls, I thought the trek out to the end a waste of time. It does, however, give one a sense of the enormity and power of the falls.

Brazil’s Iguaçu National Park extends along the south side of the cataract. After paying admission (credit cards are accepted, unlike Argentina where it is cash only), visitors board a bus for a 5 km. ride to a drop-off point near the first viewing area.  Along the way, the bus makes two stops for hikers who want to enjoy nature along 9 km. and 5 km. trails. The second stop is where the river boats are located; these are a separate fee.

The walk along the Iguaçu River includes steps down the cliff that take visitors from one viewing area to another. The power, majesty, and length of the falls unfolds as you move toward the end, just meters from the south edge of Garganta. There is one walkway that has been built over the river in front of Garganta and it provides the up-close-and-personal drenching of a boat ride. Raincoats and ponchos are for sale at the beginning but these provide little protection with water flying everywhere. Canny young Brazilians stripped down to their bathing suits for the adventure. 

 At the end of the walk on the Brazilian side, you are whisked up to street level in a glass-enclosed elevator. A 100 meters away buses await to take you back to the entrance. 

One other way to seen the falls is by helicopter.  A ten-minute ride costs US$120 and can be arranged just outside the Brazilian park entrance. Fortunately for us, our flight from Iguaçu International Airport took us just south of the falls so I got my aerial pictures for the price of our flight to Rio.

I tried to imagine the reactions of those Jesuits, 400 years ago, when they beheld Iguazu for the first time. They would have never seen anything like it. In a world where “awesome” has become an overused cliché, Iguazu is one place—like Machu Picchu—that is truly awesome.